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At Cocktails’ Biggest Conference, the Discussion Turns to Not Drinking

As you can imagine, there are a substantial number of cocktails served at the event. That said, not everyone attending the conference is drinking alcohol.

Sometimes those conversations also include the choice to not drink. A former traditional bartender, Hawkins started the project after deciding to be permanently sober. “Cocktails and mocktails are the exact same thing, it’s just another ingredient. Adding a spirit to a recipe is just another layer, another addition,” Hawkins told a crowd of roughly 30 people at his mocktail gathering. “The mocktail project is very simple: It’s about creating spaces where cocktails and mocktails can coexist and really helping to create a safer, more-inclusive drinking culture.”

Another person who made a similar decision is Mark Goodwin. This past year, he founded The Pin Project, which offers a wearable pin that bartenders and patrons alike can put on when they want to let others know they’ve chosen to not drink that day. Goodwin received a grant from the Tales of the Cocktail Foundation in 2018 to get the project going.

“It was a whole bunch of little conversations with friends and family in the industry that sort of led to the big idea,” Goodwin says. “I was finding myself going to work with every intention to not drink, and then a friend comes into the bar and wants to buy you a shot or your other bartender’s friend comes in, and they just pour a shot for you—it’s this awkward thing, so you just do it.”

The Pin Project
Emily Price/Fortune

What’s now a pin started out as a tattoo of sorts that Goodwin would draw on his arm with a Sharpie at the beginning of his shift as a visual reminder of the promise he had made to himself. The pin serves as not only a visual reminder to the person wearing it, but also a nonverbal sign to those around them that they’ve chosen to not drink for the evening, hopefully preventing situations like those accidental, sometimes peer-pressured shots.

Rather than give the pins away, Goodwin charges $15 for them as a way to give the pin value, and have those who wear it make a conscious investment in its purchase. The proceeds from the pin go to connecting mental health and substance abuse counselors with people in the service industry who need them.

The idea isn’t for the pin to be worn just by permanently sober people—although it certainly can be—it’s also meant for people who might just want to take a night off from drinking, or even those who are doing something as simple as picking their friend up from the airport and need to stay sober to do that safely.

“It’s just been so incredible to see this tiny, little small baby of an idea resonate with so many people,” Goodwin says. He’s also no longer working alone—several other bartenders have joined in on the effort.

A spirit-free option at the Hendrick’s station for Tales of the Cocktail’s opening party.
William Grant & Sons

That idea of supporting those who want to stay sober is resonating with larger brands as well. The Mocktail Project’s installation was sponsored by Brown-Forman, the parent company of Woodford Reserve and Jack Daniel’s. Last year, William Grant & Sons—the group encompassing brands such as Hendrick’s, Glenfiddich, and Sailor Jerry—was one of the first major brands to enter the space: It made the bold move to throw an opening party for Tales of the Cocktail 2018 with no alcohol.

“The reason we did the party is we wanted to prove that we can come together as an industry and have fun, and we don’t have to drink to that,” says Charlotte Voisey, the head of ambassadors for William Grant & Sons, who originally proposed throwing the spirit-free bash. “We’re starting to talk a bit more about these issues right now and doing away with the peer pressure that has existed a long time in this industry to drink. You don’t have to be a night owl and drink every night. All those clichés that used to surround the idea of what a bartender is—it doesn’t have to be that way.”

The theme of the party was dubbed “Spirit Free and Dreaming.” Voisey says the brand decided to go to an extreme to prove that point. “There are a lot of people who don’t drink in this industry,” Voisey says. “We talk about diversity and inclusion; they’ve been excluded this whole time from all these events because the focus was always on consumption rather than conversation.” Brands like Hendrick’s and Glenfiddich were still at the party in their full glory—just the alcohol wasn’t. A dozen bars were set up representing each of William Grant & Sons’ labels, along with elaborate spirit-free cocktails inspired by each one.

A mocktail menu by Chicago bartender Julia Momose.

While Voisey says the initial reaction from the industry was that of surprise, in the end, people came and had a great time. “People would say, ‘Wow, I can’t believe that’ or ‘That’s great,’ but very few people asked why, because everybody knew why, and that’s the whole point,” Voisey says. “Everybody knew the message we were trying to make and that it was an important message.”

This year, alcohol returned to the launch party, which kicks off the first night of Tales of the Cocktail. However, at every bar, the brand offered a nonalcoholic option as well. That decision seems to be on par with how Tales is operating now as a whole. While spirits will continue to be the focus of Tales, going forward, it will also continue to support those in the field who choose not to drink.

“Anyone who’s passionate about being in this industry, we want them to have a home here,” Rosen says. “It’s really important for us to, again, go back to the sense of why we started ‘Beyond the Bar.’ That’s supporting the whole bartender.”

More must-read stories from Fortune:

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—Forget wine or tequila: Celebrities are launching sake brands now

—5 Irish whiskey brands you need to try now

—Rosé Prosecco doesn’t actually exist—but it will soon

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